Month: June 2017

Right controls completed

Progress today

Separated right switch case halves and removed throttle cable ends from the throttle tube – I had plenty of slack with the carburetors out.

Cleaned out the switch housing and lubed both cables with WD40. Both cables slide easily in both directions.

Cleaned off remaining grip adhesive on throttle tube. Sanded and cleaned the right clip on and cleaned out the inside of the tube.

Reassembled cables, switch housing, and throttle tube on the bar. Tightened the nuts at the switch end of the throttle cables.

Installed new grip and the polished bar end weight.

Right handlebar complete.

Bled rear brake, carbs out

Progress today

Bled the rear brake caliper by the manual method.  Pumped the pedal and bled to Mityvac hose without pumping any vacuum pressure.  Saw bubbles in the fluid from the nipple the first couple of cycles, then none after.  Nice firm pedal feel and the brake works now.

Loosened clamp and removed choke cable at the carb end.  Unscrewed the manual idle adjustment cable/screw from the carb assembly. Left the knob and cable on the frame.

Loosened all 8 carb boot clamps. Soaked each boot with WD40 to help them slide. Levered carb assembly up off the boots – two rear cylinders forward first, then front ones back/up.

Once carbs up off the ports, removed the throttle cable holder and pulled cable ends from the carb wheel.  Cables now loose enough at the handgrip to remove and clean that assembly, as well.

Carbs on the bench.  Will have to determine minimum disassembly needed to clean all passages/jets and change out o-rings and seals. Noticed that float bowl screws, at least, are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) types.  Will get the right screwdrivers before attempting to loosen those – they are very tight.

carb assembly, underside

A little worried that the choke mechanism doesn’t move much.  Can’t see any obvious problem, but not sure how it’s supposed to work, either.  Needs investigation. I hope I haven’t bent something while levering carbs off the intake ports.

Thermostat housing also now accessible. Will replace thermostat and clean housing while we have access.

Took a look in one of the ports (#2). Not much to see, at least nothing alarming.

The engine “v” needs a good vacuum and clean, too.

Then stuffed paper towels into intake ports to keep everything out while apart.

Bled front brakes, filled oil

Uploaded updated checklist [V10].

Progress today

Installed the brake master cylinder and lever assembly on the right clip-on. Reconnected the two brake lines and again attempted to bleed at calipers with the Mityvac.  Still got no pressure with the bleed nipple open.  Then tried manual technique of pumping lever and then opening bleeder.  After a couple of cycles, I noticed leakage – fluid pushing out of the banjo bolt – at the master cylinder end.  It looked like it was coming from between the two hose fittings.

Took the assembly apart and replaced the copper washers.  As I was doing that, it looked like the bolt needed an extra washer at the cylinder end to make a good seal – like the threads were not seating all the way.  Added 4th washer and buttoned it all up again.

Filled reservoir, again applied the bleeder, and … success.  No more leak. Had pressure and was able to pull fluid.  Did both sides with the Mityvac, then a couple of cycles each manually with the lever.  Now have a good firm lever, and piston action at both calipers.

Reinstalled front brake switch on master cylinder [still need to attach wiring – after right switchgear assembled].

Temporarily pulled the brake master clamp off the right clip-on and masked/spray painted the metallic matte nickel over scratched areas on the bar under and near where the master attaches.

Lastly, refilled the bike with engine oil, using about 3.3 quarts of the Castrol 20W-50.

Cleaned & inspected clutch; turned engine over

Progress today

Decided to disassemble, clean, and inspect the clutch to see why it wouldn’t disengage with the lever, rather than wait until the bike is running and try to jolt it loose.

Removed side cover. Pulled out the bolts/springs and removed the pressure plate. Pulled out the lifter bearing with its guide.  It rolls smoothly and is clean.

Inside the basket the plates moved somewhat as a unit, but there was no sign of crust or goop that would explain stickiness.

Pulled out each of the discs and plates, inspected for wear, warping, and heat (on metal plates), and stacked in order of removal. They all look in good shape.

Pulled out the judder spring and noted concave side out. No damage seen anywhere, and no debris or other crust found in the clutch basket.

Wiped each disc and plate and reinstalled them in the basket.  Installed and gradually tightened – star pattern – and torqued (9 ft/lbs) the pressure plate bolts over the springs.

Tested the clutch again and found it operates smoothly and disengages readily with the lever in.  I could see/hear the plates sliding against each other with the clutch lever applied as I turned the rear wheel in gear, but the wheel spins easily.  All good.

Later …

With the right side engine cover off again, I think it (past) time I do a quick check to be sure the engine turns over and nothing’s impeding the pistons.

Unbolted the radiator brace and hinged the radiator out enough to get at the front spark plugs.  Used the handy Honda-supplied tools and removed the plugs from front and rear.

Stuffed the long tube attachment in and sprayed WD40 in the general direction of each spark front plug hole. Took a peek with led light in the rear holes to see if I could make out the piston tops.  Saw some grit/dirt at the bottom of both shafts.  Insect nesting or castings maybe?  Used custom cardboard-roll-and-bleeder-tube vacuum adapter and sucked the stuff out.

Then sprayed WD40 into the rear cylinders.  Let the WD40 work for about an hour in case there is any rust or crust.

Turned the engine by hand with a ratchet handle and 17mm socket on the nut at the end of the crankshaft. A little slow at one point on first rev, but smooth – no grinding or other metallic noises.  Just whoosh of air moving.  The second and subsequent rotations smooth and even. Very nice.

Reinstalled spark plugs, attached radiator bracket, and buttoned-up right side cover.