Mounted muffler; right engine cover off

Progress today

Made extended tailpipe gasket from 0000 steel wool and blended over the existing gasket portion on the factory header pipe. Fitted up new Delkevic muffler and tailpipe with supplied brackets and hardware. Wiggled a bit to get the pipe behind the passenger peg bracket and up under the bodywork edge.

Test fitted the right rear fairing piece to check clearance and alignment with the muffler.  Looks really good and the bodywork just clears the muffler mounting bolts and hanger.

Later … removed the right engine cover for repair/repaint. It’s significantly corroded and has a scrape at lower left.

This exposed the clutch and assorted inner bits to view.

Had issues with 3 of the 8mm bolts holding the cover. Eventually used a bolt extractor, 1/4″ deep socket, and breaker bar (thanks to Dan) to get them broken loose. Organized them all on cardboard to be sure they go back in the same holes.

Carefully scraped old gasket material off of the inside of the cover and mopped out old oily spots.

Next:

Clean the mating surface on the engine case. Clean, sand, prep, and paint the outside of the cover, then reinstall.

Plastic fix: turn signal

Posted updated checklist (V4)

Progress today

Shopped supplies, tools for forks. No luck yet on plastic pipe/tube for bushing/seal driver.  1-1/2″ PVC coupler is too large and too thick.  Fork stanchion tubes are 41 mm diameter (about 1-5/8″).

Bought and installed more stainless fasteners. Notably front master front cylinder screws.

(compare to before)

First attempt at ABS plastic welding with cement. Used cleaner (mostly acetone) and medium black cement to fix broken mounting tab of right front turn signal body. Set up in less than a minute.  Left to cure for about 4 hours.  Assembled into upper right fairing section.  Worked like a champ – very solid. Expect good results for body plastic, too.

inside view, lamp out
lamp in
outside

Polish windscreen, begin tank cleaning

Progress today

Scrubbed front fender – ready for prep & paint.

Cleaned windscreen.  Polished screen with headlight compound. About 4 passes total front and two on the back, working in small areas: about 2 hrs effort.  Pretty good clarity now with a slight gray smoked effect. Sufficient for the moment (compare to before).

Disassembled gas tank. Removed filler cap, fuel level sensor unit, fuel petcock, and fuel hose/filter assemblies.

Cleaned filler opening on tank and filler cap surfaces.

Replaced fuel filter with glass aftermarket unit. Attached 3/8″ adapters with teflon plumber’s tape.  Clamped tank end. Hose was clear.

Emptied about 1/2 gallon of nasty black liquid from tank. Found about 2″ of sludge/tar at the lower end where the fuel petcock/screen enters.  Level sensor coated with sludge. Pickup tube/screen coated to 2″ from bottom. Petcock almost immoveable and full of tarry sludge.  Scraped/brushed and cleaned both assemblies with solvent.

Fuel level sensor assembly (after cleaning)
Petcock assembly after external cleaning, new inline filter

Disassembled screen and petcock.

Petcock and screen cleaning in progress

Removed o-ring and valve handle. Pulled tar out of both screen tubes and petcock body using dental pick. Soaked petcock body in Gunk can (thanks Dan!), about 2 hrs.  Final cleanout with QTips. Valve action now crisp and easy.

Used fingers to pull out gunk from tank within reach of petcock hole.  Added two hands full of pebbles and half gallon of gas and swirled/shook tank for about 30 minutes. That got another pound or two of tar out. Rinsed/swirled  several times with water/pine cleaner, then Xylol (xylene), then gas.  Lower end of tank needs further cleaning.

Next

Soak tank innards for 24hrs with pine cleaner solution. Flush tank, seal/coat. Reassemble.

Disassemble front bodywork

Progress today

Disassembled front end bodywork ass’y.  Removed and polished headlight ass’y.  Separated body panels. Moved fasteners, ducting to new right panel. Cleaned all panels and polished visible mounting bolts. Existing center and left sections will need re-paint.

old, damaged right-front panel (inside)
new right-front panel (inside)

Cleaned and polished airbox ass’y, added new air filter and prefilter media. Ready to reinstall.

airbox, filter, cover

Removed front fender, ready for clean/prep.  Faded, scratched, will need paint. Polished decorative mounting bolts.

All bodywork now off bike. All but mid-fairings and two new right-side panels to be painted.

(fuzzy) naked bike

Next

Polish windscreeen. Clean/clear/inspect tank and petcock assembly. Replace fuel filter in existing rubber mount.

Disassemble rear, remove front fairing

Updated checklist posted [V3].

Progress today

Completed removing turn signal from left side rear fairing. Screw frozen, stripped. Used drill and manual screw extractor to remove. Replaced original rusted steel screws with new stainless for both rear turn mounts.  All rear plastic now ready for repair (then paint).

Removed front upper fairing assembly. Extracted left flange screw – plastic threaded brass insert spun. Removed and re-habbed mirrors and boots. Reference note:  mirror mount points (bolt holes) are 55mm apart. Cleaned out debris. Cleaned/refinished dash, black rubber and plastic parts.

Mirror inner covers (after)
 dash area (before, after)
windscreen (needs serious polishing)

End of the day:

 side and front

Misc cleanup, disassemble tail

Polished grab handles …

… and blackened rear fender.

Removed chain guard.

chain guard in place, center clamp w/brake hose

Brushed metal clamps. Cleaned and vaselined black plastic.

after first treatment

Disassembled tail section. Cleaned parts and polished up tail light and turn lenses.

Attempted reassembly with new right side plastic.  Changed mind – will fix original left side plastic first. Possibly wait for paint.

old right side w/cracks (use for plastic weld practice, then discard)
old left side w/cracks (will repair, reinstall)

 

Set-up new grinder, assemble lowers

Bought a mid-range Delta 6″ bench grinder, wire, buffing, polishing wheels at Lowe’s.

Progress today

Assembled and experimented with wire-brushing some bolt heads and shifter pedal.

Also found two lovely stainless steel socket head machine screws at Lowe’s to replace the rusted phillips heads in the lower fairing.  Got the second screw out; turned with big jaw pliers. Cleaned surviving fairing half and new one. Reassembled with new screws.

Ordered OEM air filters and overflow bottle, as determined yesterday.

Picked up new battery – already filled and charged – better get moving on this rebuild. Also fuel filter and other supplies.

 

Begin teardown, evaluation

Began disassembly with some evaluation. See checklist (V2). Photos and notes for later reference on reassembly.

Items determined to need replacement today:

  • Coolant overflow bottle – brittle, broke apart at touch. Hose from radiator left in place, ok.  Drain hose in bag with tiny hose clamps, also ok.
  • Air filter – not just very dirty;  oil/grease through at least 50% surface. May attempt, but probably not worth cleaning

  • Pre-(air) filter element – it had crumbled to gel/slime

Progress today

Removed lower fairing ass’y.  Cleaned up the mounting bolts/rubbers and left on the frame points.  Need to separate fairing halves to replace rashed right one.  Both screws solidy rusted in.  Used penetrating oil.  Got one off, 2nd still stubborn. Try again tomorrow.

Removed coolant overflow bottle.  

Removed tail section fairing ass’y.  Disconnected rear light wires at harness:

Grab bars already off – need polishing.   Both rear plastic tabs at main bolts broken off. Will have to weld/repair the left half plastic we’re keeping.

right
left

Parts marked L and R, in bag with bolts and cushion washers, which look good.

Removed gas tank with hose and fuel filter attached.

Original fuel filter location - line to carbs from fuel pump below
hose locations under tank; larger is breather drain
small diameter hose sticking up goes to fuel tank. Note also position of main fuel hose to carbs (on left) and breather to airbox (upper center)

Pulled out tank breather/drain tube from bike frame:  has chewed or cut parts. May replace. Tank may still have fuel in it.

Disassembled and removed airbox ass’y with sub-filter attached.

looking forward at sub-air filter housing with hose attached

Note: one of it’s mounting screws is mostly hidden at front under forward breather tube attachments.

Inner screws are captive. Rear-most/lower (3) screws have cap and sleeve.

Removed battery and tie-wrapped wires for each terminal. They appear to be original bike wiring + alarm circuit + charger plug.

as-wired before removal

End-of-day